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One air-cooled hood (the fixture that holds the bulbs) can cost $250 at your local grow store. The ballast (provides the proper starting and operating electrical condition to power the lamp) can run $199 and up. 1000W light bulbs start at $69 and max out around $250. A mechanical timer will run you $10 to $20. A 6″ in-line fan (to cool the hood) will be about $100 and then the ducting, to carry cold air in and hot air out, will be about $20. So, if you were to walk in to the grow store and buy top quality equipment for just one light kit, it could cost up around $630 per light. With that said, most grow store’s offer this same kit with low end equipment for around $450 if you can catch a good sale (not including the in-line fan). If you shop online you can find all this equipment for $350.
Now, if you have more than one light in a room or are growing in a small space than an A/C unit is going to be needed to keep the temperature under 80 degrees. Portable units are the best priced option for grow rooms. They start around $250 and go up from there. A split unit A/C would be ideal but they start out around $1500.
A grower with 2-1000w h.p.s. (flower) and 1-1000w m.h. (veg) can expect a $300-450 a month power bill depending on the time of year and your normal usage.
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Your payment details are protected by their robust, industry-standard, security systems.
They handle all of your details in a discreet manner which fully respects your privacy.
All of their deliveries are fully guaranteed, so that nothing will ever come between you and your order.
The best cannabis seeds prices you’ll find anywhere on the web: guaranteed!
If you happen to find a better deal online for any of the seeds they offer, they will refund you the difference and supply you with 2 white widow seeds, completely free of charge, with your next order: now that should get your spider senses tingling!
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For serious collectors, their extensive range of feminized seeds is a veritable cornucopia of fine-quality genetics, each of which represents a master-class in modern weed seed breeding; When quality matters, don’t accept sub-par imitations.
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Whilst each of their feminized seed strains could be described as modern miracles in their own right, there is another female who should never be underestimated: Mother Nature…Their regular seeds provide cannabis connoisseurs with more traditional, classic and old-school inspired strains: all of which are provided exactly as nature intended.
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At The Vault Cannabis Seeds Store, they have worked hard to secure an enviable line-up of brands which reads as somewhat of a ‘who’s who’ in the weed seeds breeding world; With prestigious names like: Afropips, Alpine Seeds, Barney’s Farm, Dutch Passion, Greenhouse Seed Co., Seedsman, Sensi Seeds, The 7 Dwarfs, The Joint Doctor, and many more, you can be sure of a wide selection of high-caliber (and often award-winning) strains to choose from.
With all the things going on with the law here in MI lets take a second to remember why people are growing.
After some thought it really comes down to one reason. Affordable medicine. You might think, well that’s B.S. my co-pay is only $5. What about those of us that don’t have health care. That same prescription would cost $50-100. What if you have 5 prescriptions, then what? Do you pay your bills or buy your meds. Then you have to choose between food and a place to live. How good are these drugs for your Liver and Kidney. Ever here of medi-cied? Pills kill. How long can you take Vicodin? How many cortisone shots can you get? Ever listen to the warnings for new drugs. Some side effects sound a lot worse than ED. How many people have died from pill overdose? These are the reasons people are looking for a natural remedy for pain and other debilitating conditions.
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“O lord save us from the wrath of the vikings.” This was first said by a monk staring at the viking horde coming his way. I’m sure your plants feel the same way. It seems like the harder you try to terminate them the more entrenched they become. Lets start at the beginning. One or two of these little darlings found there way into your garden(mite heaven). Over joyed this soon to be mother starts to lay her eggs. Around 300 over the next three days. These eggs hatch and the first wave start to suck your plants dry. So lets say 200 hatch. 150 of them reach the point or reproducing. If half are female (75) and they lay around 300 eggs each thats around 22,500 mites. You see the problem grows with each generation.
When you find them its usually to late. The best thing to do is stay calm, its not the end of the world. Check all the plants find out how infested they are. You have several options. First rinse the plants. For real, just put them in the shower if you have to. Send the mites right down the drain. Heavy rains are a part of nature, plants recover quick from the shower . Just be sure to place pots in a trash bag to keep them dry. Mighty Wash works best as a first line of defense. If you cant wipe them out with Mighty Wash. Oils would be the next step. Neem oil or Einstein oil works for a wile then the mites build up a resistance. Your plants will not like the oils. It’s very easy to burn/shock/kill your plants with them. Fogers don’t seem to work for me. Don’t Bug Me and Liquid Ladybug can be used up until the day of harvest, so they claim. I would not spray the day of harvest! I would not spray anything after 2 weeks into the 12/12 light cycle. The best thing to do is stay on a regiment. Spray every 4 days. Remember your plants wont like the spray so get the little buggers as soon as possible. Most people settle with controlling the problem, keeping there numbers down and just getting through till harvest. At first this seems to be the best answer. Each grow after that they will be harder to control.
You can also order predators like lady bugs. Don’t release them all at once. Put out a small pan of water for them. After they run out of mites to eat. they seem to disapear or die somewhere out of site.
If none of this works for you there is one more option a complete clean out of the grow-op. Spray every thing with a strong miteacide. Then come back after that drys and do a bleach spray. Wait 4 days and do it again just for good measure. Make sure you clean the whole building. Mites can hide on your clothes so do the laundry too. The key here is to clean/kill everything.
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Co2 is a necessity for the indoor grower. Claims have been made of 20% to 60% increase in growth rate and harvest. Plants that receive Co2 have more resistance to pest and disease. Most growers are growing in there home with grow rooms right next to the bedrooms or in there basements.
When you ad a Co2 tank the risk is minimal, raising your ppm to 150o, which is within human tolerance. When you add a Co2 generator you are now burning gas to produce the Co2 and a by product of this is Carbon Monoxide. In a sealed room these gasses can build up.
Homemade generators can be very dangrous. Using fumes from a water heater or furnace just seems dumb. So does using a propane heater or lantern. They produce Carbon Monoxide which can be lethal. It takes about 5 hours of fresh air to reduce the levels of carbon monoxide in your blood to 1/2.
In the winter people are at a higher risk of Carbon Monoxide poisning. Furnices are being used after a year of sitting idle. We are spending a lot more time inside. If you are using a Co2 generator make sure you have carbon monoxide detectors around the house(one on each level).
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Marijuana likes a lot of food, but you can do damage to the plants if you are too zealous.
Some fertilizers can burn a plant and damage its roots if used in to high of a concentration. Most commercial soil will have enough nutrients in it to sustain the plant for about three weeks of growth so you don’t need to worry about feeding your plant until the end of the third week. The most important thing to remember is to introduce the fertilizer concentration to the plant gradually. Start with a fairly diluted fertilizer solution and gradually increase the dosage. There are several good marijuana fertilizers on the commercial market Most fertilizers cause a ph change in the soil. Adding fertilizer to the soil almost always results in a more acidic ph.
As time goes on, the amount of salts produced by the breakdown of fertilizers in the soil causes the soil to become
increasingly acidic and eventually the concentration of these salts in the soil will stunt the plant and cause browning out of
the foliage. Also, as the plant gets older its roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To avoid the
accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that your plant is getting all of the food it needs you can begin leaf
feeding your plant at the age of about 1.5 months. Dissolve the fertilizer in warm water and spray the mixture directly onto the foliage. The leaves absorb the fertilizer into their veins. If you want to continue to put fertilizer into the soil as well as
leaf feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants.
Remember to increase the amount of food your plant receives gradually. Marijuana seems to be able to take as much fertilizer as you want to give it as long as it is introduced over a period of time. During the first three months or so, fertilize your plants every few days. As the rate of foliage growth slows down in the plant’s preparation for blooming and seed production, the fertilizer intake of the plant should be slowed down as well. Never fertilize the plant just before you are going to harvest it since the fertilizer will encourage foliage production and slow down resin production. The most organic of fertilizers: worm castings. As you may know, worms are raised commercially for sale to gardeners. The breeders put the worms in organic compost mixtures and while the worms are reproducing they eat the organic matter and expel some of the best marijuana food around. After the worms have eaten all the organic matter in the compost, they are removed and sold and the remains are then sold as worm castings. These castings are so rich that you can grow marijuana in straight worm castings. This isn’t really necessary however, and it is somewhat impractical since the castings are very expensive. If you can afford them you can, however, blend them in with your soil and they will make a very good organic fertilizer.
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These 3 ingredients are usually listed on the front label of the plant food in the order of N-P-K. A 20-20-20-plant food has a Nitrogen level of 20%.
Secondary nutrients are Calcium, Sulfur and Magnesium. In trace quantities, boron, copper, zinc, iron, and manganese.
Different nutrients are needed at different times. For rooting and germination, levels of high P nutrients with less N/K are needed. Vegetative growth needs lots of N a complete 20-20-20 with trace elements should do it. Watch for calcium, magnesium, sulfur and iron levels too. These are important. One tablespoon of dolomite or hydrated lime is used per gallon of growing medium. It is possible with passive hydroponics, to get nutrient build-up over several feedings, to the point the medium is over saturated in nutrients. Just feed straight water now and again, until you notice the plants are not as green (slightly), and then resume normal feeding.
Use weaker plant food mixtures than normal, maybe 25%, and be sure your leaching once a month and running straight water through the plants at least every other time you water. This applies mainly to plants grown in soil mediums.
Use of light strength Oxygen Plus plant food (or Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide) allows the roots to breath better and prevents problems with over-watering. Check soil to be sure there are no PH anomalies that might be due to Hydrogen Peroxide in the solution. (Be sure your medium has good drainage. At this point, if your watering soil based plants once a week, you can water every 3-5 days instead if you plant them in a medium with better drainage. Pearlite or lava rock will greatly increase the drainage of the medium and make watering necessary more often. This will pump the plants; they will tend to grow faster because of the enhanced oxygen to the roots. Make sure the plant medium is almost dry before watering again, as the plant grows faster this way.
Stop all plant food 2 weeks before harvesting, so that the plants do not taste like plant food. (This applies to hydroponics as well.)
WARNING: Do not over-fertilize. Always read the instructions for the fertilizer being used. Use 1/2 strength if adding to the water for all feedings in soil or hydroponics if you are unsure of what your plants can take. Build up slowly to higher concentrations of food over time. Novice soil growers tend to over-fertilize their plants. Mineral salts build up over time to higher levels of dissolved solids. Use straight water for one feeding in hydroponics if it is believed the buildup is getting too great. Leach plants in pots every month. If your plants look REALLY green, withhold food for a while to be sure they are not being over-fed.
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The least expensive way of reducing the heat in the grow room is to vent out the heat and replace it with cooler air.
Sounds simple right? Well it is, but what most beginners forget is that you can’t blow the hot air out without a way for the cool air to get in to replace it. The best way to setup a venting system like this is to mount one exhaust blower on the inside of the grow room up high to blow the heat out, and another blower on the outside mounted down low blowing cool air in. Hot air rises, cool air settles.
The exhaust blower can be turned on with a thermostat so it only runs if the temperature gets too high. The thermostats plug into the wall and have an outlet for the blower. When you set the temperature at, let’s say 80 degrees, the blower will turn on at 80 degrees. It will stay on until the temperature drops to 80 minus the differential. The differential is the difference between the turn on point and the turn off point. It’s usually about 4 degrees. This means that if the thermostat is set at 80, the blower will turn on at 80 degrees and turn off at 76 degrees. This gives the blower some working time. If the thermostat had no differential the blower would turn off as soon as it turns on, then off, then on, etc., not very efficient.
Some people turn the blowers on with a timer. The blower might be set to turn on at a specific time or multiple times during the day. This will also get the job done, but it’s not the most efficient method. If you’re looking to control the temperature you should measure the temperature, not the time of day.
Sometimes the air coming in is just too hot and can’t cool the room. When this is the case the blower can be run on the same timer as the grow light, or another timer set to go on at the same time. This is not really solving the problem, just a cheap fix. The problem is the air coming in is too hot, so why not cool it. An air conditioner can be used for the supply air and a blower can blow out the heat.
An alternative to moving all the air out is to capture the heated air and vent it. This can be done with an air cooled grow light. The advantage with this setup is that you’re using less energy to move the heat out. The volume of air in the reflector might be 3 cubic feet and you can vent it out in a few seconds. It doesn’t matter if it’s hotter, just how much of it you have to move. Venting a 288 cubic foot grow room that’s 95 degrees takes a lot longer than venting a 3 cubic foot reflector that’s 150 degrees.
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Once you show your grow op to someone they will tell some one else.
That’s a fact.
People want to feel important so in the middle of a conversation things slip that normally wouldn’t or shouldn’t.For this reason alone keep it zipped.
Now there is an exception to every rule.
You may require the help of a consultant if your having a problem with your grow. If your new to growing and your serious about your medication then having someone who can diagnose your plants and teach you about growing will be invaluable.
Keep the number of people who know your growing to a minimum and where your growing at top secret.