Posts Tagged ‘best growroom set up’

The Mighty Mite


“O lord save us from the wrath of the vikings.” This was first said by a monk staring at the viking horde coming his way. I’m sure your plants feel the same way. It seems like the harder you try to terminate them the more entrenched they become. Lets start at the beginning. One or two of these little darlings found there way into your garden(mite heaven). Over joyed this soon to be mother starts to lay her eggs. Around 300 over the next three days. These eggs hatch and the first wave start to suck your plants dry. So lets say 200 hatch. 150 of them reach the point or reproducing. If half are female (75) and they lay around 300 eggs each thats  around 22,500 mites. You see the problem grows with each generation.

When you find them its usually to late. The best thing to do is stay calm, its not the end of the world. Check all the plants find out how infested they are. You have several options. First rinse the plants. For real, just put them in the shower if you have to. Send the mites right down the drain. Heavy rains are a part of nature, plants recover quick from the shower . Just be sure to place pots in a trash bag to keep them dry. Mighty Wash works best as a first line of defense. If you cant wipe them out with Mighty Wash. Oils would be the next step. Neem oil or Einstein oil works for a wile then the mites build up a resistance. Your plants will not like the oils. It’s very easy to burn/shock/kill your plants with them. Fogers don’t seem to work for me. Don’t Bug Me and Liquid Ladybug can be used up until the day of harvest, so they claim. I would not spray the day of harvest! I would not spray anything after 2 weeks into the 12/12 light cycle. The best thing to do is stay on a regiment. Spray every 4 days. Remember your plants wont like the spray so get the little buggers as soon as possible. Most people settle with controlling the problem, keeping there numbers down and just getting through till harvest. At first this seems to be the best answer. Each grow after that they will be harder to control.

You can also order predators like lady bugs. Don’t release them all at once. Put out a small pan of water for them. After they run out of mites to eat. they seem to disapear or die somewhere out of site.

If none of this works for you there is one more option a complete clean out of the grow-op. Spray every thing with a strong miteacide. Then come back after that drys and do a bleach spray. Wait 4 days and do it again just for good measure. Make sure you clean the whole building. Mites can hide on your clothes so do the laundry too. The key here is to clean/kill everything.

Grow-A-Room
Construction and Consulting
231-855-1705
growaroom@yahoo.com

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Marijuana Fertilizer

Marijuana likes a lot of food,  but you can do damage to  the  plants if you are too zealous.

Some fertilizers can burn a plant and  damage its roots if used in to high of a  concentration.   Most  commercial  soil will have enough nutrients in it to sustain  the plant for about three weeks of growth so you don’t need to  worry  about  feeding your plant until the end of the third  week.   The  most  important thing to remember is to introduce the  fertilizer  concentration  to  the  plant gradually.   Start  with  a  fairly  diluted  fertilizer solution and gradually increase  the  dosage.   There  are several good marijuana fertilizers on  the  commercial  market  Most fertilizers cause a ph change  in  the soil.  Adding fertilizer to the soil almost always results in  a more acidic ph.

As  time  goes  on,  the amount of  salts  produced  by  the  breakdown  of fertilizers in the soil causes the soil  to  become
increasingly  acidic  and eventually the concentration  of  these  salts in the soil will stunt the plant and cause browning out  of
the foliage.  Also, as the plant gets older its roots become less  effective  in  bringing  food  to  the  leaves.    To  avoid  the
accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that  your  plant  is  getting all of the food it needs you  can  begin  leaf
feeding your plant at the age of about 1.5 months.   Dissolve the  fertilizer in warm water and spray the mixture directly onto  the  foliage.   The leaves absorb the fertilizer into their veins.  If  you  want to continue to put fertilizer into the soil as well  as
leaf feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants.

Remember to increase the amount of food your plant  receives  gradually.  Marijuana seems to be able to take as much fertilizer  as you want to give it as long as it is introduced over a  period  of  time.   During the first three months or so,  fertilize  your  plants every few days.   As the rate of foliage growth slows down  in the plant’s preparation for blooming and seed production,  the  fertilizer  intake  of the plant should be slowed down  as  well.   Never fertilize the plant just before you are going to harvest it  since  the fertilizer will encourage foliage production and  slow  down  resin production.  The most  organic  of  fertilizers:   worm castings.   As you may know, worms are raised  commercially for sale to gardeners.   The breeders put the  worms  in  organic compost mixtures and while the worms are  reproducing  they eat the organic matter and expel some of the best  marijuana  food around.   After the worms have eaten all the organic  matter  in  the compost,  they are removed and sold and the  remains  are  then sold as worm castings.   These castings are so rich that you  can grow marijuana in straight worm castings.   This isn’t really  necessary  however,  and  it  is somewhat  impractical  since  the  castings  are  very expensive.   If you can afford them  you  can,  however,  blend  them in with your soil and they will make a  very good organic fertilizer.

 

Grow-A-Room

Construction and Consulting

231-855-1705

growaroom@yahoo.com

grow-a-room.com