Posts Tagged ‘plants’

The Mighty Mite

“O lord save us from the wrath of the vikings.” This was first said by a monk staring at the viking horde coming his way. I’m sure your plants feel the same way. It seems like the harder you try to terminate them the more entrenched they become. Lets start at the beginning. One or two of these little darlings found there way into your garden(mite heaven). Over joyed this soon to be mother starts to lay her eggs. Around 300 over the next three days. These eggs hatch and the first wave start to suck your plants dry. So lets say 200 hatch. 150 of them reach the point or reproducing. If half are female (75) and they lay around 300 eggs each thats  around 22,500 mites. You see the problem grows with each generation.

When you find them its usually to late. The best thing to do is stay calm, its not the end of the world. Check all the plants find out how infested they are. You have several options. First rinse the plants. For real, just put them in the shower if you have to. Send the mites right down the drain. Heavy rains are a part of nature, plants recover quick from the shower . Just be sure to place pots in a trash bag to keep them dry. Mighty Wash works best as a first line of defense. If you cant wipe them out with Mighty Wash. Oils would be the next step. Neem oil or Einstein oil works for a wile then the mites build up a resistance. Your plants will not like the oils. It’s very easy to burn/shock/kill your plants with them. Fogers don’t seem to work for me. Don’t Bug Me and Liquid Ladybug can be used up until the day of harvest, so they claim. I would not spray the day of harvest! I would not spray anything after 2 weeks into the 12/12 light cycle. The best thing to do is stay on a regiment. Spray every 4 days. Remember your plants wont like the spray so get the little buggers as soon as possible. Most people settle with controlling the problem, keeping there numbers down and just getting through till harvest. At first this seems to be the best answer. Each grow after that they will be harder to control.

You can also order predators like lady bugs. Don’t release them all at once. Put out a small pan of water for them. After they run out of mites to eat. they seem to disapear or die somewhere out of site.

If none of this works for you there is one more option a complete clean out of the grow-op. Spray every thing with a strong miteacide. Then come back after that drys and do a bleach spray. Wait 4 days and do it again just for good measure. Make sure you clean the whole building. Mites can hide on your clothes so do the laundry too. The key here is to clean/kill everything.

Construction and Consulting

Keep Your Grow Room Cool

The least expensive way of reducing the heat in the grow room is to vent out the heat and replace it with cooler air.

Sounds simple right? Well it is, but what most beginners forget is that you can’t blow the hot air out without a way for the cool air to get in to replace it. The best way to setup a venting system like this is to mount one exhaust blower on the inside of the grow room up high to blow the heat out, and another blower on the outside mounted down low blowing cool air in. Hot air rises, cool air settles.

The exhaust blower can be turned on with a thermostat so it only runs if the temperature gets too high. The thermostats plug into the wall and have an outlet for the blower. When you set the temperature at, let’s say 80 degrees, the blower will turn on at 80 degrees. It will stay on until the temperature drops to 80 minus the differential. The differential is the difference between the turn on point and the turn off point. It’s usually about 4 degrees. This means that if the thermostat is set at 80, the blower will turn on at 80 degrees and turn off at 76 degrees. This gives the blower some working time. If the thermostat had no differential the blower would turn off as soon as it turns on, then off, then on, etc., not very efficient.

Some people turn the blowers on with a timer. The blower might be set to turn on at a specific time or multiple times during the day. This will also get the job done, but it’s not the most efficient method. If you’re looking to control the temperature you should measure the temperature, not the time of day.

Sometimes the air coming in is just too hot and can’t cool the room. When this is the case the blower can be run on the same timer as the grow light, or another timer set to go on at the same time. This is not really solving the problem, just a cheap fix. The problem is the air coming in is too hot, so why not cool it. An air conditioner can be used for the supply air and a blower can blow out the heat.

Air Cooled ReflectorAn alternative to moving all the air out is to capture the heated air and vent it. This can be done with an air cooled grow light. The advantage with this setup is that you’re using less energy to move the heat out. The volume of air in the reflector might be 3 cubic feet and you can vent it out in a few seconds. It doesn’t matter if it’s hotter, just how much of it you have to move. Venting a 288 cubic foot grow room that’s 95 degrees takes a lot longer than venting a 3 cubic foot reflector that’s 150 degrees.

Construction and Consulting

Spring Growing Problems

Soon old foes will soon be out of their winter refuge.

Creep and crawl they will, straight to your nice warm garden. Your garden being the most temperate climate, is prime for early infestation.

Keep an eye out for these intruders. It’s much easier to prevent an infestation rater than remove an invasive species.

I have sticky pads ready for the first catch of the year.

As a preventive maintenance you can spray your plants down with soapy water. A few drops of Ivory dish soap in a spray bottle filled with water is all you need.

Make sure to keep a clean grow room as bugs and other things can easily be overlooked under a pile of leaves left on the floor or some spilled dirt.


Construction and Consulting




Do you want to grow more or better?

I’ll take better any day of the week.

Higher resin content, higher trichome production, higher THC levels and higher CBN levels all add up to better more potent medication.

Street grade marijuana will become a thing of the past. With today’s law reforms going on all over the states, breeders will be able to work openly with out the constraints of the past and produce new strains all the time.

We have healthier plants with faster growth and more vigorous seedling that have shorter flowering time or auto flowering, because of some hard working breeders.

What is to come from this little weed?


Construction and Consulting


Keeping healthy plants.

What is a healthy plant?

My definition of a healthy plant is one that is growing at its optimal rate.

Growth cannot always be measured by height because a plant that stretches for light will grow tall but be weak. Rather, judge health by it’s over all appearance.

Healthy is: a nice bright green, thick, healthy leave, free of wilt and nutrient burn with new growth and close branch formation.

We all want our plants to grow big and strong with out any problems.

Less is more with water and fertilizers.

Co2 is hard to over do. Most people need more than they think.

Air circulation is very important. If the air doesn’t move over the surface of the leave then it is stifled in its ability to process Co2 into O2.

Take each grow on a day by day basis. If your a beginner or expert, problems can sneek up on you. Make sure your remedy is measured so you don’t end up with a new set of problems.